On my last trip to Italy, I decided to mix pleasure with business. While in Rome, we were overwhelmed by the fantastic architecture, the almost indescribable beauty of the Sistine Chapel, and the gastronomical delights in almost any restaurant in the city. We had been warned that “Pasta dishes in Italy are not what you think. In America we have sauce with pasta. In Italy, it’s pasta with sauce!” And that’s what we found: the pasta had almost no sauce on it. That lets the flavors of the pasta come through unmasked, but it was a surprise which, we were told, can be alleviated by asking for more sauce, and also asking for “meat sauce”.

What we were not prepared for, and it was an extremely pleasant surprise, was the appetizer: bread with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Here, in the “colonies”, when we are served balsamic vinegar, it’s like all other vinegars – acidic and sour. In Italy, nothing is farther from the truth. Balsamic vinegar is described in Wikipedia as “..The original traditional product (Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale), made from a reduction of cooked white Trebbiano grape juice and not a vinegar in the usual sense, has been made in Modena and Reggio Emilia since the Middle Ages: the production of the balsamic vinegar is mentioned in a document dated 1046. During the Renaissance, it was appreciated in the House of Este. Today, the traditional balsamic vinegar is highly valued by chefs and gourmet food lovers.”

“Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale” is prepared in a process similar to how fine sherry is created: aged in barrels of various woods for years, during which its volume is reduced by natural evaporation. Again, from Wikipedia: “True balsamic vinegar is rich, glossy, deep brown in color and has a complex flavour that balances the natural sweet and sour elements of the cooked grape juice with hints of wood from the casks”.

You don’t have to travel to Italy or visit on-line importers to find and enjoy these rare tastes. I’m going to show you what to look for, and how to sort quickly between various brands in your local stores.

First, the obvious: look for vinegars that say that they are “traditional”, or actually say on the tag that they have been aged at least 12 years, or are recommended to be poured over ice cream or pastry. The second step is to pick the bottle up and tip it. The liquid inside should flow thickly. If it flows like water, it’s probably not what you want. The third step is to tip the bottle so that the liquid flows up over the inside of the neck. Aged product will actually coat the glass of the neck. If it doesn’t leave a coat on the neck, it’s probably not sweet. I have found that most aged liquids may be bottled and sold in rectangular, squat bottles. But be prepared: good, aged balsamic vinegars can be costly: it’s not uncommon to find aged traditional balsamic vinegars that can cost between $150 to $400 for a 100 ml bottle. However, acceptable, sweet, aged, traditional balsamic vinegar can be bought at markets like Whole Foods for under $30.

Norm Huffnagle enjoys sharing exotic recipes with friends and family. Although more of a ‘gourmand’ than a ‘gourmet’, he does ‘dabble’in that arcane art of unconventional cooking to the point that he has actually been invited back to do repeat performances. Norm specializes in ancient Chinese dishes, various flavors of Chilis, contemporary Mediterranean cuisine, and occasionally fiery Mexican preparations.

Tradizionale balsamic vinegar is made in the towns of Modena and Reggio Emilia, in the northern Italian region of Emilia-Romagna. These authentic balsamics are made using artisan methods established in the Renaissance and date back to the traditions of the ancient Romans.

The process begins when the must of specially selected grapes of the Trebbiano and other typical varieties are subjected to a soft pressing. The must is cooked over an open fire until the liquid has been concentrated by one half to one third. After filtering, the vinegar is racked into barrels. The successive phases of fermentation and maturation are carried out in a series of barrels of different wood with capacities of decreasing size. They are stored in acetaie or “vinegar cellars” and each barrel is topped up with vinegar from the container next to it. Aging lasts a minimum of 12 years. If aging lasts more than 25 years, the vinegar can be described as extra vecchio.

Production of Tradizionale Aged Balsamic Vinegar is strictly monitored by the Consorzio Aceto Balsamico di Modena.

Acetum, one of the most respected balsamic vinegar producers in Italy, is part of this Consorzio which is committed to promoting the product and safe guarding it’s quality. The consorzio has also adopted regulations which oblige all members to comply with production procedures and methods intended to guarantee the very best product quality.

Thanks to the consorzio seal, consumers can be sure of purchasing an Aged Balsamic Vinegar of Modena that has been produced and bottled in the genuine production zone, in compliance with these strict regulations.

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